torek, 04. marec 2014

Big Project - Osp

Almost two years ago I bolted new super line on the left side of the cave. Soon I realized it's going to be hard, probably the hardest one in the cave. When I tried it for the first few times I had no idea how to do all the moves in the first section. I could do only the first two and the rest of 28 moves (to the big rest) were mystery. So I had to hang around on a route for a long time to crack the puzzle. Upper 30 meters of the route is super nice climbing on stalactites and luckily not so hard. Around 8a, 8b I think.
Warm up is possible with the boat

After more and more tries I could finally connect sections together and I got an idea this route could be possible to climb. Than the water came and I couldn't try it anymore. Under the cave was a big lake so I couldn't get to the start of it. When the water was gone and I came back I had to start all over again. I found some crazy new sequences where I didn't know at the end what is up or down. Real 3D climbing.

So now when we had too much of rain in Slovenia I had to find other ways to get to the route. First I tried with a boat. Especially comfortable for a belayer but was hard to stay dry until I started to climb. So next time I made a Tyrolean traverse over the lake and I could get to the project "normally"
Waiting for the rescue

New approach

On Saturday I came in Osp and I went directly to the route (other routes were under water so no warm up). One try to clean it and second one I fell on the last hard move before the rest. It took all the energy out of me so I didn't know if I will be able to try it again. But the rest on the deserted island was good and I tried one more time. Second time I fell in the beginning so I tried again immediately. Fell again on the 30th move. Rest again, eat, drink red bull and I was ready for the next try. This time I was climbing perfectly and I saved some energy for the last hard moves. Was on the limit but I came to the good rest on the stalactite. I was happy but I knew I still had around 30m of route to climb to the top. I was wondering all the time to the top "why didn't they just finish the route after hard part?". When I cliped the chain I knew why: It makes the route so much better.




The route is called Water world and graded 9a. If it's more (or less) others will tell, I know I had great time in it and it was worth making it.
Looking for the next cool line

5 komentarjev:

  1. Are these current fotos? I have been to Osp several times but I never made it to see the cave like these.... filled with water :(. Do you know when there is the best time?

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  2. I've been to Osp yesterday. The cave sector currently looks exactly like this - surreal :-)

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  3. @Peter Best time for swimming or climbing? Usually water comes out in the winter when there is a lot of rain in karst region of Slovenia. So now when all the fields from Cerknica to Osp are flooded the water will stay for a while. But usually it's gone in a week or two. For climbing is good all year. In winter sun gets in so it's not so cold and in summer it's in the shade all day (when it's 30 outside in the cave will be around 25 so still possible to climb).

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  4. Would a ropeless ascent be possible? is the water very deep?

    OdgovoriIzbriši
  5. Only in Halupce or Troja the first day water comes out and it is until gray line. Next day water level goes 2 meters lover and it's not deep enough. WW starts a little higher and there in an "island" under the crux so I would not try it.
    There are also currents under the surface of water and you could have problems getting out. Next problem is temperature of water which is around 8°C

    If you wanna try it I can drive you around with kayak and wait to see what happens :) (I was too scared to go for it)

    OdgovoriIzbriši